Let’s begin at the point where you have already completed your research and purchased the seeds that will thrive in your flower bed(s) or perhaps you are fortunate enough to be able to sow or plant an entire meadow.
If we can also assume that you took soil samples to a local private laboratory and have made any soil corrections that were deemed necessary then we are to the point where we can begin the planting process.
We are of the opinion that mother natures own natural planting time is by far the best to sow wildflower seeds and therefore it has to be fall as you prepare for the work ahead of you.
Many wildflower seeds have to be stratified by cold temperatures in order to trigger germination and fall and winter will prove effective in doing this step for you.
If you insist on a spring planting then you can pre-chill the wildflower seed in the fridge for at least six weeks.
Actually I always used to place all of my seed in the freezer for a month and one half or longer which was always followed by excellent germination.
It is important that you work just the upper surface of the soil and try not to go deeper than one inch.
Deep tilling of the soil simply will bring hundreds or perhaps even thousands of additional weed seeds to the surface where they will germinate and compete with your flowers.
So in small areas use a tiller or if you really want a workout then proceed using a shovel and rake.
For large open areas that will allow you to bring in a tractor, we suggest a light harrowing of the soils surface.
If any of the varieties that you are sowing are legumes then be sure to add the required inoculant.
The seed company where you purchased your wildflowers can advise you if and how much inoculant is required for your plantings.
After all sowing has been completed you should follow by gently compacting the beds surface which brings the seed into contact with the soil.
In small areas you can use your hand or a flat board for gentle compacting.
For large areas simply pull a water filled roller, just like the ones that are used on new lawn installations, over the soils surface.
Now for an application of clean wheat straw which should be lightly applied at a rate that just barely covers the soils surface.
Don’t allow the straw to clump on the ground but rather a nice light and even distribution is what you should strive for.
This last step is very important so please don’t overlook it.