Garden Containers

Prior to dealing with other styles of garden containers I hope that you will find it interesting to discuss the intriguing concept of trough gardens and should you desire you can follow the rather simple instructions to create your very own container.

The article that you are about to read was authored by Rod Ackerman an expert in the fields of perennial and woody ornamental plant propagation with a strong emphasis placed on various styles of garden containers.

Troughs; Gardens in Miniature – by Rod Ackerman

Have you ever dreamed of having an alpine garden, a piece of tundra in your yard, a stone scape, a bog, a little touch of desert, or want to buy that miniature dianthus, sedum, South African succulent, etc. but were afraid they would disappear in your garden.

All of these and more can be had in little space and at a fraction of the labor with a garden container.

In the United States trough gardening is a mix or cross of Japanese Bonsai (Tree in a Pot), Chinese Penjing (Mountain Scapes in Miniature), the compulsion to collect the small and unusual, and the English Tradition of Alpine Gardening.

The “tradition” of trough gardening had its start in England when an unknown alpine gardener noticed or found use for the abandoned limestone watering troughs sitting out in the former pastures or farm places.

It was found, by using these old and weathered watering troughs that it was easier to create the unique environment needed for many of the miniature and alpine plants.

In addition the plants could be displayed in a more naturalistic way than one plant one pot.

For those of us in the United States, most of us do not have access to old abandoned limestone watering troughs.

When there’s a will we usually find a way. Hypertufa; a mixture of Portland, peat, and an aggregate such as sand, perlite, or vermiculite.

The formulation that I most frequently use consists of one part Portland, one part sand, and two parts peat (if the peat is baled or compressed it is best to screen it through a one half inch screen before adding to the mixture).

On larger troughs I also add fiberglass fibers from a cement company to reduce potential cracking.

After mixing the ingredients together I add just enough water to create a lumpy “dry” porridge. Just enough water to activate the Portland, but not flowable like concrete.

At this point I’m ready to make my new trough.

Pick or make the form, anything from a box lined with plastic, a large plastic bowl, a rubber maid storage container, they’ll all work as long as there’s no obstructions (formed handles, etc.).

Free form the inside of the trough by compacting the mixture inside the form. The more you compact the hypertufa the stronger the resulting trough.

You might want to add a few drainage holes at this time depending on the ultimate use.

Remember the trough is not hard yet so be gentle. Cover with plastic or cloth for at least a week or two, the slower it dries the stronger it will be.

Now let it age for at least a month before planting.

Your ready to create your new landscape.

What do I use for for soil?

What type of plants are you going to grow?

Soils for filling troughs are as variable as the people and plants. Make sure it fits the plants.

Some of the common ingredients might include; peat, composted/aged bark, perlite, vermiculite, hadite, gravel, sand, compost, garden soil, slow release fertilizer, etc.

After all of the variables discussed so far, now comes the big one, the landscape itself.

Plant material: A trough planting should include plants with similar cultural requirements, whether it’s drought tolerant, full sun, shade, water lover, tropical, or temperate.

The plant habits, as with any landscape should include various textures and heights. The one common denominator is that the plants should be naturally dwarfed/small or easily dwarfed.

There is a surprising range of plant material to pick from including but not limited to Arenaria (pussy toes), Dianthus, Draba, Sedums, 100’s of South African Succulents, cactus, alpine perennials, and dwarf conifers.

There are even some dwarf grasses and sedges, miniature lilies and alliums, the list goes on. Look for plants small in habit and unique in texture or color.

In addition to plant material garden containers can also include rocks or drift wood to create relief and some type of mulch, usually gravel or pebbles. Anything that helps to create a more naturalistic appearance.

Once you have begun the journey to trough gardening, whether it’s a simple wooden box, limestone trough, or the construction of a hypertufa trough; the options, potential plant material, “landscape”, and design are limited only by our imaginations.

I’m sure that all new gardeners and old pros alike are aware of the almost unlimited array of garden containers.

These urns, pots, planter boxes, hanging baskets and on and on can be formal or casual in concept and depending on the material used for construction can be inexpensive or extremely costly.

If we can just simply cut through to the heart of this subject we would tell you that in our opinion that the plant or plants that you select are far more important than the garden container.

If your woody ornamental(s) or display of flowering annuals and or perennials looks top notch then little attention will be paid as to what they are planted in.

Yes. There are exceptions to a garden container selection as for example you may desire to have high quality pots arranged in a formal display which features them and not any particular plant material.

I would go on to say that probably the very best display of plants, both flowering and foliage only, have been in rather nondescript planters.

On occasion innovative gardens have used quite unconventional planting pockets in items such as common concrete blocks, side holes in barrels, six inch PVC pipe with holes cut into it.

One of the best was an old storm cellar that had been filled in and with the head and side walls remaining a unique micro climate was formed which produced the perfect location for the various plant materials chosen for the site.

Plantings in dry stacked rock or concrete walls certainly do wonders in softening the hard and harsh appearance of these hardscape features.

The best perennials to use for this project can be found in perennials for trough, alpine gardens, rock gardens and rock walls.

Probably the best advice that we can offer is to be creative in your use of garden containers to plant in. Have fun with this concept, as fun is what gardening of any type is all about.